May 21. 3:00 PM. Day 9. Walked 24.8 km (15.4) miles) today. Walked 224.6 of 787 km (139.5 of 478 miles) total.

Before I left Colorado I bought a great book called A Pilgrimś Guide to the Camino de Santiago, by John Brierley.  It is an excellent book, and I have seen many other pilgrims carrying it as well.  He breaks the walk into 33 stages (each stage is one day), and for each stage he describes the walk itself, the churches and other notable things to see, the albergues along with brief descriptions, plus other information about the towns, etc...  It has been a fantastic resource and probably one of the things I am most afraid of losing! 

As you may remember from yesterdayś entry, I went 11km farther than he suggested for that stage, so I ended yesterday in the middle of todayś stage.  This was somewhat intentional, as I thought it might reduce the "traffic".  Well, mission accomplished.  For the entire 15 mile walk today, I saw probably 5 other walkers.  It was almost spooky, but this is what I imagined the walk to be like when I first thought about doing this, so it feels quite good in a lot of ways.  We shall see if it holds up or if today was just an anomoly.

Before I tell you about the incredible place in which I am staying tonight, I would be remiss if I did not share a little story from last night.  After finishing my blog entry, I ate dinner early (6:00, which is very early to eat here!) so that I could be in bed as early as possible.  By 6:30, I was climbing into my sleeping bed on the top bunk.  There was a man in the bunk beneath me already asleep and a woman in the bottom bunk across from us, also already asleep.  After about 10 minutes or so I was drifting off pretty nicely, when I felt the bed begin to move -- quite rhythmically.  I immediately started praying that this was an earthquake, but alas, it was not.  I just layed there in shock, coughing as loud as I could, wondering whether I should be laughing or throwing up (these were not attractive people and I found out later that they were most likely people who walk up and down the camino all year looking for cheap places to sleep, among other things), and thinking "hello!! (hola!!), you are not alone."   Thankfully, Mr. Romance did not take long and she was soon back in her own bed.  And, believe it or not, I was asleep again soon after.  Mom and dad -- do you remember my Italian train story from 1986??


Now, a quick note for Talia and Zach, in case they are reading this:  When a mommy pilgrim and a daddy pilgrim love each other very much...

Ok, enough of that.  I am now in one of the most beautiful hotels I have ever stayed in in my life.  It is in a little town called Villafranca Montes de Oca (population 200).  The man who owns the hotel has done the camino a few times and when he built the hotel he added and albergue in the back.  It is gorgeous.  The hotel was only built last year, so it is not listed yet in many of the guide books; but it is in mine.  And when I read about it, I planned my route specifically so I could be here.  It has completely exceeded my expectations.  Not only is it spectacularly beautiful, but since no one knows about it, there are only 2 other pilgrims here so far.  The shower was incredible and the room is perfectly cool and comfortable.  All this for... are you ready... 8€.  I am in pilgrim heaven! 

Until tomorrow...